How to install lowering springs.
Front and Rear
Air tools are a plus to have
You will need a coil/spring compressor. They are a rent-able item from your local Advanced Auto / Pep Boys.
First step is to jack up your G and place it on jack stands just off of the rear pinch welds or chassis. (doing both at the same time will save time)
This will be your view from the back side of the rotor
Next with your jack or another jack if you have a couple...elevate with just a bit of pressure the rear spring seat... just a small amount to hold it up.
Next with two(2) 17mm ratchets remove the bolt hold the spring seat arm where it is attached behind the rotor and let the jack down slowly to free the spring. (it is a pain but you have to back it out all the way with the wrench)
I used my high pressure air to clean out the seat.
choose the spring the fits you the best... H&R fit me the best.
compare to your factory springs
put pressure on the spring seat to re-install the spring. the rubber bushing has to be seated just right in its pattern.
with your jack raise the spring seat so that it is re-aligned with the slot right behind the rotor where you removed it from at tighten the bolt back at 85lbs
Mount the rim and lower off of your jack stands.
finished... now on to the front... write-up in a few days.
Thanks for looking. hope i helped you DIYers
Ok the front is a bit tricky... First measure the front end as is Factory.
Next jack up your G and place it on jack stands along the chassis
after the rim has been taken off remove the sensors from the strut. there are two locations. Let the wire hang free.
Remove the brake line bolt from the strut and allow the line to hang free.
Next remove the three strut tower bolts from inside the engine bay.
Now remove the bolt from the base of the strut that runs through the lower control arm.
Next are the two bolts for the upper a-arm. the boxed nut from inside the engine compartment will not spin so you only need the wrench for the wheel well side.
The upper a-arm will drop down.
The a-arm can be pulled outward to help remove the strut.
The strut needs to be slid forward for removal
Remove the lower end-link bolt (end-link is from the sway-bar to the control arm)
Place a few strips of painters tape over the middle of your fender to prevent scratches from the strut tower bolts when removing the strut.(you will thank me)Then pull the strut out.
Time to get out the spring compressor
Compress the spring till the pressure is off the top rubber isolator(at the strut cap)Next, A prybar can be used to help stop the plate from spinning while you losen the strut bolt and remove the plate.
A vice, or any pair of pliers can be used to hold the piston shaft as you losen the bolt because it will start to turn.
Then remove the spring from the strut.
At this time uncompress the factory spring slowly and remove the compression tool.
Remove the rubber/plastic isolator from the bottom of your factory springs and place them on your new springs to prevent steel against steel rubbing then compress the new spring.
Aline your springs to seat correctly in the strut then replace the cap and bolt back into place.
Once the spring is seated correctly and the plate is bolted back on, uncompress your new spring slowly into place.
Place your strut back into the wheel well in the manor that you removed it. The bottom of the strut can slide on the lower control arm to help get it into place.
After your get the strut into place, bolt the bottom on the get the sway ber end-link bolted back on.
Next are the two upper A-arm bolts to replace.
Then replace the three strut tower bolts from inside the engine compartment.
Replace the brake line bolt and sensors.
Replace the rim AFTER GOING BACK OVER ALL THE BOLTS TO CHECK IF THEY HAVE BEEN TIGHTENED. Lower the car off of your jack stands and are finished. Good Job.
So you go from this...
Have fun out there.