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car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume

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Old 02-03-2010, 06:48 PM
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FIXED-Got pics-car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume

i just installed an amp 1200watt (600 rms) with 2 ohm 2channel with subs 2x10 kickers l7 2400watts (1200rms)
i am having a problem
1)with some songs/cd the bass would be good then all of the sudden hit hard and the amp would shut down and go back on right away

2)when the bass is staple and hits hard....when driving i feel a jerk/surge as if the car is loosing power.

background.installation
2003 bose coupe, i tapped into the rear using a hi/lo converter on then to the amp then to the subs...
i have a logic amp


and 2 kickers L7 2400 watts
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car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume-imag0115.jpg car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume-imag0116.jpg car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume-imag0117.jpg car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume-imag0118.jpg car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume-imag0120.jpg


Last edited by randy021186; 02-08-2010 at 09:38 AM. Reason: fixed
Old 02-03-2010, 07:05 PM
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Your amp is a pile of trash, no other way to say it. There isn't a 600 watt RMS out there that you can get for $160. Maybe with a $16 crowbar. Return it if at all possible and get an amp with a real, legit, recognizable name on it. Pioneer, Alpine, whatever. Guarantee that any one of those brands for $160 will work better than that "add some zeros to it!" brand amp.

It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
Old 02-03-2010, 07:11 PM
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Also when it hits hard and you feel the car lose power, that's exactly it, your sub is sucking so much juice out of your electrics in your car that your car doesn't have enough juice in that split second.
Things to fix this are capacitors, bigger alternative, thicker wiring, and an isolated battery.

Whenever you go over 1000 watts, plan to spend about that much.

Wrathernaut is correct btw. Amp is junk. Why do you think there are amps that put out the same amount of power yet have a price tag that's 600 more?
Old 02-03-2010, 08:13 PM
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Combination of a bad amp and probably bad wiring. Make sure there is no metal touching metal on the connections and use 4 gauge power wire for your amp. For a system like that, you'll probably want a capacitor like Ginevan says, and I can't agree more with Wrathernaut. Your amp needs to be replaced with a name brand, proven amp.

You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
Old 02-04-2010, 09:23 AM
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a cap is the wrong way to go

its something with wiring

im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total

no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.

Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
Old 02-04-2010, 09:24 AM
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the amp isnt the best, but its not going to cause these issues
Old 02-04-2010, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut View Post
Your amp is a pile of trash, no other way to say it. There isn't a 600 watt RMS out there that you can get for $160. Maybe with a $16 crowbar. Return it if at all possible and get an amp with a real, legit, recognizable name on it. Pioneer, Alpine, whatever. Guarantee that any one of those brands for $160 will work better than that "add some zeros to it!" brand amp.

It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
i got the amp a while ago, and there are 2 fuse on the amp and one fuse to the battery, could it be a ground problem? because the amp ground wire is about 1-3 feet
Old 02-04-2010, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bauer418 View Post
Combination of a bad amp and probably bad wiring. Make sure there is no metal touching metal on the connections and use 4 gauge power wire for your amp. For a system like that, you'll probably want a capacitor like Ginevan says, and I can't agree more with Wrathernaut. Your amp needs to be replaced with a name brand, proven amp.

You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
i did use 4 guage, i had the same amp in my maxima and it was working great with my old subs..
Old 02-04-2010, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by blazeplacid View Post
a cap is the wrong way to go

its something with wiring

im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total

no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.

Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
I agree...when i put the amp in the maxima i would blast the SAME amp to MAX and NO SURGE..
Old 02-04-2010, 10:11 AM
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the amp isnt the best, but its not going to cause these issues
i aslo have



i will try this amp this weekend
Old 02-04-2010, 10:13 AM
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If that's the case then you'll also want to check your grounds. Sand off the surface that it connects to and make sure the wire makes as solid of a connection as possible. 1-3 feet of ground wire is fine, but the contact point is more important. Make sure you ground to the frame of the car.
Old 02-04-2010, 10:13 AM
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When he tap into the bose wire in the back, he just used one line (L) and used a high to love convertor
Old 02-04-2010, 10:15 AM
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Just replace the POS amp now before it ruins your subs and other electronic components.

While installing the new one, re-check all the wiring you did. If the problem persists after installing a proven, quality amp, post back here.

So long as the ground wire from your amp is also 4 gage and solidly connected to bare metal, that's not the issue.

Even if there were no other issues, this amp is going to be working at well above its true maximum and burn out at very least itself, and torture or kill your alternator, battery and speakers the whole time its doing itself in.
Old 02-04-2010, 10:17 AM
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If that's the case then you'll also want to check your grounds. Sand off the surface that it connects to and make sure the wire makes as solid of a connection as possible. 1-3 feet of ground wire is fine, but the contact point is more important. Make sure you ground to the frame of the car.
i always have to keep my factory bose bass at -5 I suspect it was somthing to do with the wiring, on some songs the amp would go into protection and is not even heated. Same exact amp in my 96 max with the bass ALL UP and no Hesitation, i will try to take pictures today
Old 02-04-2010, 10:18 AM
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can someone give me a good ground spot?

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